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     Na Dniach Lajtowych: 2009, 2010
I grown up in High Tatra mountain. There is excellent climbing specialy in winter.  Frozen grass on steep walls. Hard to climb it, harder to protect yourselves. This was our main training while we came to Alps and Himalayas.
In Czechoslovakia were many good mountaineers who have climbed great routes. They were an example for us. Now the situation changed, it´s mostly sport climbing. Many young climbers are very good but they are afraid of huge targets. When I was younger, I wanted to climb behind the security limits. I wanted to climb where the others turned back. My first expedition was in Himalaya Pradesh, in India. I was twenty and I have been climbing with our best climbers. They taught  me a lot. But I wanted more. Next year we came back just in couple and we climbed a new route in alpine style on one virgin peak. This was my first real alpine climb in Himalaya. And I enoyed it much more than the other styles.
I started to climb more. In Alps I climbed very nice long routes to Grandes Jorasses and Les Droites where I wanted to improve.
Three years ago I discovered climbing in bigwalls of Karakoram. But for this targets you need a good team. That´s why I joined young Gabo. We climbed together Great Trango, where we tasted unbelievable adventure. Someone told us that it has been already behind our abilities but I think it was just the beginning of what we are able to climb. We chosed the line just few hours before entering the wall. We didn´t now anything about the weather forecast. We had no idea how long can this climb take us. We took with us just the most important equipment. During the climb we fought with an incredible cold. Last three days we had no more food and after we reached the summit ridge, the worst descent in our life waited us. The classic descent was endangered by avalanches, Gabo had altitude sickness and started to lose his sight. We decided to rappel the northwest face with just few bolts we had and the rest of our equipement. Today I think our chances were 50:50. It was something like a Russian roulette.
On the south face of Great Trango there are two routes now. American one that was in fact a culmination of efforts of more expeditions and the second one, Slovak, that was climbed in one push, without any informations.
We started to look for money for another expeditions. The project „The biggest faces in alpine style“ originated. We wanted to climb Cerro Torre, Gasherbrum IV... But our manager abilities failed and after Cerro Torre we had to look for some cheaper peak.
I am happy we chosed Uli Biaho Tower. We know well this region, we have many friends there and there´s so much climbing, we could climb there all our life. This NW face, till then unclimbed, was my secret dream. I knew it would be something completely different from what we climbed till now. We had to come earlier because of the ice conditions. Our idea was to climb this face in perfect style. In one push, in alpine style, without bolts and as fast as possible. But for this style we needed some „worm up“. That´s why we climbed Hainabrakk and Shipton first. We were not afraid of climbing there. We were afraid of the summit. We trained a lot in ice and mixed terains but this was something else. Steep not stable heavy snow and no protection. Big danger just below the summit.
I believe we had big luck to climb this line. Just because the conditions were on the edge of climbability.
Our experiences from Trango helped us a lot, as also our experiences from our other climbs. We knew what to take with us and how to climb to be fast enough. The route we made on Trango was similar to the one from Uli  Biaho Tower, but also very different as it was just in ice. Anyway it´s a nice feeling to have routes in both these important faces.

In the year 2007 I wanted to try something new. To climb all 14x8000m peaks during the short time - in period of 3 years. No more time for it because 8000m peaks are not everything in my life. The project was simple. First year get as much experiences from altidude as it possible. I tried to climb 5x8000m. Second year I tried 4x8000m in period of 2 and half months and Annapurna from NW as a bonus. For sure all in alpine style or let´s say in light style. During the third year I returned to Annapurna. And why? Because I started to understand one thing and it was, that it is not important how many 8000m you climbed but what you climbed. I´am still a climber and not a collector of 8000m peaks. During my climbs on highest peak I learnt a lot. I wanted to use all my experiences and to do something great. Something like Bonington on Annapurna, Hard way on Everest. All in alpine style.
Sometimes is harder to repeat the well know difficult route in alpine style like to climb a new one. And it was true. NW face and S face of Annapurna, GII, Shisha Pangma. All are great routes. But today, after seven year in Himalaya I´am again looking for something new. Something what I never tried before. To climb solo. After several solo climbs in High Tatras or Broad peak - The head wall I was ready to think about it - to climb solo.
Annapurna south was a crazy trip without any preparation before. We had a good attempt in Bonington route on Annapurna where we climbed to 6400m in 3days. But the weather forecast for next days was not good. Heavy snow and strong wind. It was not easy decision but our lifes were more important like this route. We retread to BC and next day was snowing. Around half metres of fresh snow. Next day the same. We were lucky to retred back. But after this attempt I didn´t have a time for another attempt because of the Piolet D´Or in Chamonix. I was a member of Jury with Habeler, Scott, Donini and two journalists. Very great time what we spent there.
Yes, I didn´t have a time for Annapurna but I had a time for something else. My climbing partners Eli and Martin they wanted to tried the Annapurna again from east. The weather was good. It was hard for me to look to my friend how they packed the gear for Annapurna. So I decided that I´ll try Annapurna south. Just front of our BC. I had 4days extra but no more, because of my flight back home and the Piolet D´Or date.
So, during the short time I find the line in SE face and than the climb had start. Sorry, at first I ordered pizza in Annapurna south lodge and I smoked 2 cigarets :-)
I was in perfect conditions, well motivated and fast. But the climbing on the begining of the route was difficult. Steep, very steep vertical ice. I climbed it without any protection. Just because it was dark and I couldn´t see the ground. But during the day I was higher in the face. The Himalayan air was around me, the people were like a ants down there and I started to enjoy this tipe of climbing. Be alone in huge face just with your mind was beautiful. The weather was good, maybe I can say that after 3 weeks this one day was full of sun all the day. Several parts were more difficult or dangerous for climbing without protection so I used my rope and climbing equipement.
When I climbed the SE face and the long ridge to the summit, the hardes part just start. The descent. I´am not afraid of climbing or the high but to be alone between crevases and seracs are not my favourite things. I went slowly, carefully but one snow bridge was thin and I felt to the dark of crevas. 5 metres deep hole but when I turned my light on, it was much more deeper. I was afraid, alone in ice hole, without any help. Only one thing what I was able to to was to climb up the hard ice and continue down with my angels.
I reached Annapurna south lodge at 3 in the morning but everybody were sleeping there. I was tired, hungry and thirsty but I still had some energy to move my body to BC. At 6 in the morning, after 40 hours of non-stop climbing I finaly got the end of this climb. But just after several days I was able to understand what I really climbed.



(the climbs)

·       Born 6.2. 1980 Bratislava, Slovakia

·       climbing since 1997

Miyar Valley, Himachal Pradesh, Castle Peak, new route, capsule style, “SHARP KNIFE OF TOLERANCE”, VI 5.12a A3, 550m
Miyar Valley, Himachal Pradesh, Mount Mahindra, new route, alpine style, “LAST MINUTE JOURNEY”, ED1, 900, 900m
Karakorum, Shipton Spire 5900m, first repetition, alpine style, “KHANADAN BUTTRESS”, VI 7+ A1, 1.200m
Karakorum, Great Trango, new route, alpine style, “ASSALAM ALAIKUM”,  VII 8 A2 ABO, 90 pitches (more than 3.000m)
Patagonia, Cerro Torre, 100m below the summit
Karakorum, Hainabrakk 5800m, new route, alpine style, “DOLZAG DIHEDRAL”, VI/6 , 1000m
Karakorum, Uli Biaho Tower 6109m, new route, alpine style, “DRASTISSIMA”, VI/6  ABO, 1800m
Himalaya, Cho Oyu 8201m, Tichy route
Himalaya, Shisha pangma 8046m, British route in alpine style
Karakorum, Nanga Parbat 8125m, Kinshofer route
Karakorum, K2 8611m, Cesen route in 30hours ( 8000m)
Himalaya, Dhaulagiri 8167m, NE route (8076m)
Karakorum, Gasherbrum II 8035m, French pillar in alpine style
Karakorum, Gasherbrum I 8068m, North face in 20hours
Karakorum, Broad Peak 8047m, new variant of austrian route in alpine style (8000m - 8047m)
Himalaya, Annapurna 8091m, NW face attempt in alpine style (7500m)
Himalaya, Annapurna 8091m, Bonington route attempt in alpine style (6400m)
Himalaya, Annapurna south 7219m, solo new route in SE face, 2300m VI/6 5+ M6 ABO
Grandes Jorasses, “COLTON MC INTYRE var. Alexis”, ED3, 1.200m
Petit Dru, “AMERICAN DIRECT”, 6c, 1.250m, 15 hours
Mont Blanc du Tacul, “GABAROV”, TD+
Les Droites, BON VOYAGE IV/VI M7, ED3, 1000m, new var.
first ascent M7+ in Slovakia, “VZDUŠNÝ ĽAD”, 2 pitches
winter solo “RUSSIAN ROULETTE”, M6+, 900m
a lot of hard winter climbs, new routes and solo climbs
El Capitan – West face 5.11c (A0), Freeblast 5.11b (A0), East Buttress 5.10c (OS)
Slovakia: Drytooling cup, double champion  (2003, 2004)
Czech republic: Ice Cimbing Championschip, 3rd place
grades as M10, 8a+, WI 6+

Podziel się    
Dni Lajtowe są świętem ludzi gór, cyklicznym spotkaniem wszystkich członków i sympatyków Polskiego Klubu Alpejskiego. Tak naprawdę, klubowicze czekają na festiwal cały rok. Jest to jedna z niewielu okazji, aby spotkaæ siê w tak dużym gronie i podsumować dokonania Klubu z całego sezonu. Naturalnie magnesem są też nasi wspaniali goście, których w tym roku również nie zabraknie. »
Projekt i wykonanie: HotelPRO © Wszelkie prawa zastrzeżone Polski Klub Alpejski 2012