ALEXANDER RUCHKIN

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     Na Dniach Lajtowych:

Alexander Ruchkin, Sankt-Petersburg, Russia

 

Was born in Kazakhstan, November 26, 1963. Started mountaineering and climbing life in 1985. Has done more than 400 ascents winter and summer ascents. More than 100 of them were ED-ED sup rated both as member of team and in pair. Climbed 5 - 7000 meters peaks. Climbed in solo style.

 

Experience

1984, first time I sew mounts,

1985, First mount Kezgen-Bashi, Caucas

1981-1989 service in Military Arms

1986-1988 Fanskiy Mounts, E.Sayany, Altay, Tien-Shan, stady of  ascents.

1989,            russian scool guide

1989-1991    guide in region Ala-Archa

1989, Summer, Zamin-Karor/ Yagnob/4702m/ Lapshin’s -VI, Rusanov’s- V ,  Lavrukhin’s 

                     routes- V

1990, Peak Semionov-Tien-Shansky-Zakharov’s route(V,) SW face Peak Korona-       

                       (V,900m)Rugevskiy’s route with Babanov, North face Peak Free    

                       Korea/4740m/Barber’s route-(

                      V,900m) and Bezzubkin’route(VI,A2,900m) SW face Peak Korona/4860m/ V+,

1991, Winter, North face Peak Free Korea/4740m/ 2 routes(V+,900m) , variantBagaev's route

                       North face Peak Korona/4860/, Smirnov’s route V+

          Summer, North face Ak-Su/5217m/  (VI,A2, 1700m) Pamir-Alai Vasiliev’s route

                        NE face Admiralteets/5090m/ (VI,A2 1000m)

                        S.Iskander/4520m/ and peak 4600m - 3 routes V

                        peak Lenina/7134 m/,V

                        North face Peak Free Korea/4747m/ (VI,A3,900m) Semiletkin's route

           Autumn - Tien Shan, Peak Talgar/4973m/ V+, Snesarev’s route

                        Peak Balian Bashi/4700m/ V+,

1992, Winter, North face Peak Free Korea/4740m/(VI,A3,900m) Semiletkin's route

                       First place Russian championship, 

          Summer, SW Face peak Russia/6888 m/( VI,A2) Ilinski's route. First place Russian     

                       championship

                       Peak Lenina (7134 m) V,

                       Peak Semionov-Tien-Shansky/4875m/ V,

1992, Autumn, Peak Talgar/4973m/ VI, North face Free Korea/4740m/ (VI, A3,900m)

                         Talgar/4973m/ V, Pelevin’s route

1993, Summer, Pamir-Alai, Peak /3800m/"Yellow Wall" V-,peak Asan/4230m/ west face 

                        VI,Rusyaev’s route

                        peak Slesova /4240m/, VI,A2,900m, Pogorelov route with Babanov

                        North face peak AkSu/5217m/ (VI, A3, 1700m) Popov route with Babanov

1994, Summer, Pamiro-Alai, North face Ak-Su/5217m/(VI, A3, 1700m),

                        Shabalin's  new route,

                        First place Russian championship

                        peak 4810 (VI, A3,1200m,), Rusiaev's route

                        peak Slesova /4240m/ Russian towerVI,A2,900m, Moroz' route

                        Asan/4230m/ VI, A2,900m,

                        3850 m (Lambda) French route V,

1995, Summer, North face Ak-Su/5217m/(VI, A2, 1700m),Tchaplinsky route with V.Pianzin

                        North face Ak-Su/5217m/(VI, A3, 1700m),Moshnikov's route, with V.Pianzin 

                        First place Russian championship

                        Korona/4860m/(VI,A1,900m) Balezin’s route

1996, Summer,  North face p.Ak-Su/5217m/ /(VI, A3+, 1700m), with A.Odintsov new route

                        First place Russian championship

1996, Winter, North face Grandes Gorasses/4208m/ "Linceul"- solo, p.Domino "Messner"- solo

1997, Winter, Tien-Shan. North face Peak Free Korea/4740m/( - with A.Puchinin new route

1997, Summer, Norway, Troll Wall/1778m/, -"Russian route"(VI,A3+,1100m), new route  

                         with Y.Koshelenko. First place Russian championship             

 

1998, Spring, Tien- Shan. North face Peak Free Korea/4740m/, ) 

and  Popenko’route(VI,A2,900m)  

 

1998, Summer, super ligue of Russian championship in France, North face Grand Jorass/4208m/, 

 "No Siesta"route-EDsup,1200m, Speed climb - 1,5 days, Petit Dru/3733m/ N.Face,- new variant(VI,A2,900m)  with R. Zaitov, First place .

1999, Winter, French Alps. Grand Capucin/3838m/, East Face, ED+(VI,A2 ,450m),variant,       

                      with R.Zaitov

1999, Spring, Tien Shan, North face Korona/4860m/, 1st tower, solo, new route –( VI,A3,600m)

2000, Winter, North Face Korona/4860m/, 1st tower -new route,(V,A1,700m) "The route of mobiles" with D.Grekov, A.Puchinin

 

2000, Pakistan, Latok III /6950m/, attempt, to 4900-5850 m, VI

2001, Spring – Tien-Shan, North face Free Korea/4740m/,solo Barber’s route and solo new       people route 

          summer-Pakistan, Latok-VILatok III/6950m/,  attempt, to 4900-6400m, VI

2002, Canada, Baffin Island, Great Silk, new route VI, First place Russian championship

          Tien-Shan, Kirgizstan, Khan-Tengry-V

2003, Tien-Shan, Khan-Tengry-V, Nepal, Himalaya, attempt to climb 7100m North face of  Jannu/7710m/

2004, Spring, Himalaya, Nepal, direct  North face of Jannu/7710m/ new route-(VI,A3+,3100m)

2005, Pakistan, recognaising North face, Masherbrum /7821m/,

           Caucaus, Bezengi, Misses-Tau /4427m/, V+ 

2006, Pakistan, attempt to climb new route the North face, Masherbrum /7821m/, high-5850m

2007, Chili, Тоrre del Pain, Bonington’s route

          Kizil Asker 5842m, new route S-E face

2008,  Cerro Tore /3108m/, Argentina,”compressor” route

           Taulliraju/5830m/, Peru, attempt to climb new route

2009, China, Tibet, massif Minya Konka, Sichuan province, unclimbed peak 6134m, first ascent,       new route 1250m, 6c, A2, north-west pillar.

2010, Antarktica, Dronning Maud Land, Ulvetanna/2931m/, Tungespissen /2277m/, 

Holtanna /2650m/

2011, Greenland, Renland, Shark Tooth, 1555m first ascent

2012, India, Himalaya, Shivling /6543m/

2013, Nepal, Kusum Kanguru/6367m/ new route

2014, France Alps, Mont Blanc /4810m/

             

 

Podziel się    
Dni Lajtowe są świętem ludzi gór, cyklicznym spotkaniem wszystkich członków i sympatyków Polskiego Klubu Alpejskiego. Tak naprawdę, klubowicze czekają na festiwal cały rok. Jest to jedna z niewielu okazji, aby spotkaæ siê w tak dużym gronie i podsumować dokonania Klubu z całego sezonu. Naturalnie magnesem są też nasi wspaniali goście, których w tym roku również nie zabraknie. »
Projekt i wykonanie: HotelPRO © Wszelkie prawa zastrzeżone Polski Klub Alpejski 2012